Open Backed Systems vs, Closed Systems

Basement Waterproofing Contractors for many years have been installing open backed drainage systems - these are sub floor drainage systems that have an open channel along the foundation wall. They felt that by leaving this open channel water leaking through the walls would drip down the wall and into the drainage system.

Now I know that people may say " Steve, you have installed open backed systems in the past!" Yes that is true, but I so firmly believe that a closed system is what people today need. In past years people used the basement or cellar for storing root vegetables - the moist damp basement environment was desirable.

Why do I preach "Closed Drainage Systems" when I know that the majority of contractors will say I am crazy? Here's some food for thought:

1) Open backed systems allow bugs to easily enter the basement.
2) They promote high humidity by allowing ground moisture to easily come up into the     basement (and home)
3) An open backed system will allow radon, an odorless gas, to easily enter your basement which is not healthy for your family.
4) Open backed systems promote iron bacteria colonies to flourish.
5) Heating and air conditioning costs are higher when a drainage system has an open backed system.

Since I have been preaching this message of installing closed drainage systems, some other basement drainage contractors are adapting their current drainage systems by installing a wall vapor barrier, however make sure that contractor is totally sealing that wall vapor barrier at the top of the wall with a sealant. Open Backed systems with a wall vapor barrier after thought MUST be sure to seal the wall vapor barrier where it meets the drainage system also.

In recent days a sub floor drainage system called Grate Drain has been developed which is  a totally closed drainage system. You can see more on this system at
www.grateproducts.com

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  • 3/24/2009 3:51 PM Stan wrote:
    Steve,

    I would like to chat with you. I have two companies, one that performs home inspections and one that does radon reduction, mld abatement, termite damage repair, among other things. We have been contemplating getting into the basement waterproofing business, since we network realtors and have a foot in the door. Would like to talk more about your closed back drainage product.

    Stan
    Reply to this
  • 5/10/2010 5:03 PM Gary wrote:
    How deep do you think an interior French drain needs to go? I have one company that says it needs to go down about 8 to 10 inches, in the mud zone (to get the water) and another company that says it should go down just a few inches (the WaterGuard system), so it doesn't clog.
    Thanks
    Reply to this
    1. 5/10/2010 9:39 PM Steve Andras wrote:
      Hi Gary,

      In my thirty years of installing over 40,000 interior drainage systems in MA RI and CT I would say the best "french drain" systems do not sit on the footer. I used to be Basement Systems (WaterGuard) top dealer. The problem with the on the footer system is that it sit too high out of the "mud zone", that is the main reason I do not recommend on the footer systems - they simply do not collect the water soon enough. That is the reason their sump liner is so deep - the WaterGuard system cannot collect the water until it reaches on top of the footer.

      On the other hand there are "interior systems out there that go too deep affecting the zone of influence leading to foundation failure. That being said, I must put a plug for the GrateDrain which is the product of everything I have learned  about basement drainage during the last 30 years. The GrateDrain is placed at the perfect height (about 5 1/2" below the floor). It is best to place the GrateDrain one inch below the top of the footer and with holes on both sides it will collect water from the wall/ footer seam and also from under the basement slab.

      for further info on the GrateDrain visit www.grateproducts.com
      Reply to this
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